German Bouldering Championship

Video by Flo Wientjes of the last Boulder in Finals

Back in Germany I for a couple of days and already on the road again to Friedrichshafen for Bouldering Nationals, I was still super jetlagged. At least I didn’t have that much bad luck with my connecting flights like some teammates who missed several flights due to delays and had a total travel time of over 30 hours. Also, the jetlag wasn’t that bad for me as I woke up at 5 AM every morning and thus wasn’t sleepy in Isolation 😀

Qualifications went down pretty good for me as I was able to get all Five Tops. Overall the boulders weren’t hard enough and you could easily get kicked out of Semis if you just messed up one Boulder. Moreover, it wasn’t really comp style Boulders (except the first Boulder which had a pretty standard side jump) and so it was kinda awkward.
Boulders in Semifinals were quite harder and more ‘comp-style’, but still not really what I expected. I was able to send the two slabs in just three attempts and could secure myself a spot by also sending a hard campus style boulder on bad slopers/ slots.
I was really excited to be in finals and a little bit relieved that I didn’t mess up in the previous rounds 😀 When I saw the boulders I got even more stoked and almost could not wait for my start. Starting with a weird slab, but then some sick moves on these awesome new Bluepill Volumes, then a crimpy boulder in the 45° Wall and finishing with an awesome looking triple dyno. I was just a little bit concerned about my skin. I know how skin rubbing these new Bluepill volumes can be if you don’t climb clean, so I tried to limit my attempts to a minimum.
It was also really important for me not to get bloody fingers as I had another 4-day competition just two days after this one, but I didn’t really think about that at the moment.

The first boulder had a cool side jump but a really hard top as the difficulty was not dabbing the wall behind the black tape while matching the top hold. While matching the top you had to hold a swing and could easily dab the wall behind a black tape.
I was able t do the boulder in my third attempt, but I felt like me right heel had slightly dabbed something… The judges gave me the top, but I told them I wasn’t so sure about that. Still, they believed it to be a top. Later I saw a video, and you can see that my right heel isn’t dabbing the wall, but you can’t see the left foot from that perspective, so I’m still a little bit unsure. It was really weird, as I did not know if I got the top until I finished the whole final round. In Isolation, you can always keep track of the number of tops everyone has and so it was a big swing in the end when I found out I had a top more than I expected 😀

The second boulder was really awesome. I think every one of us finalist had a different beta and they all seemed legit. In my flash attempt, I could do the bottom part smoothly, but had a really disgusting fall at the top move. Falling straight on the back from 3 meters is not the best thing to happen in the middle of finals. After that, I did one more attempt but didn’t have the energy to go through the bottom part anymore.

The third boulder was just some straightforward crimping, or at least I believed so in my first attempts. The first move was super hard, and I couldn’t quite hold it the original way. Then I found a heel on the tiny start hold, that made the first move possible for me. The rest of the boulder was easier for me, even though most finalists struggled with that part.

The last boulder from the final round was by far the one I was looking forward to the most. I totally love these kinds of triple dynos. I was able to flash it straight away and was super happy.

I had no Idea, which place I made, but was really happy with my performance Overall. It also made me really confident to see that I was able to perform at a high level consistently in all three rounds on different boulder styles. It seems like the boulders in Worldcups are just slightly too hard for me at the moment. I hope that I can change that until the World Cup in Munich.

In the end, I became German Bouldering Runner-Up 🙂 ? Outstanding performance also from Yannick Flohé, who had a perfect round in finals with four flashes. Huge congrats bro 😉

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